High Five | Jeremiah Klein Collection
Palmera Express, Palm Sunday, Palm Springs-there are a lot of popular palms in the world but this one is special to me. I have been going to Hawaii since 1999 and my goal every year is to find something different and new to photograph. This single palm was found while trying to find a new angle to shoot a line-up of Haleiwa during the Triple Crown.
Ocean Beach is a beautifully scary big wave in Northern California. On massive winter swells it is beautiful from the beach and absolutely terrifying in the water with all its power and consistency. It took a while to find the right vantage point to capture this image and show off the raw energy of this special swell. With a corduroy of waves to the horizon this spot makes boring classroom notebook sketch dreams a reality.
While taking a road trip from Sydney to Brisbane Australia in 2018 we stopped at The Pass in Byron Bay to take advantage of its long right point. It was a small fun swell perfect for mid-lengths, twin fins and gliders. The bands of changing weather made it difficult to shoot with sun and rain taking turn in 15 minute bursts. Literally a second after this image was taken a heavy rain squall hit the beach sending us all running to the car.
This is one of my favorite surf images I have ever captured. The reason is not because it's a pumping swell or a perfect wave or even amazing action by any means. It is a special image because of how it makes me feel. It just invites you in and makes you want to be there. Dereck Disney looks like he's having fun on his twin fin and the mountains in the background and scenery in the foreground all add to the mystic of the place. I want to be there. Take a second look, breath, don't you want to be there too?
It takes over two days of travel to get to this wave but all the jet lag, ferry boats and cramped car rides were definitely worth it. Nothing jolts the body back into working order like perfect 6 foot tubes. Of course taking a 6 footer on the head can break you so it is good to be picky and only grab the ones with a clean exit. Cam Richards chose wisely...